Iquitos is the jungle city where your Amazon adventure begins.
You will normally arrive at the airport in the early evening and be transported to your hotel, giving you time to explore. Below, you will find some information of general interest. Before you go up the river the next day, you will be able to take the City Tour with your English speaking guide.
See our programmes: Seven Day Jungle Programme: Twelve Day Jungle Programme.
Iquitos , with a population of around 300,000, is not only Peru’s largest jungle city but is the most interesting of the towns in the jungle, and in its heyday it was one of the grandest cities in the whole of the Amazon basin.
Before the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, the jungle area around Iquitos was quite densely populated with probably as many as 300,000 natives living here. However, when the Spanish arrived, they brought European diseases with them and the population was much reduced. The conquistador Francisco de Orellana, who arrived on the 12 February 1542, was the first European to see the Amazon River.
Despite the advent of missionaries, who were very active in converting the population, the Spanish largely ignored the jungle and it was not until 1864 that Iquitos was founded. Because it was then soon discovered that rubber was indigenous to the Iquitos area the city rapidly became of worldwide interest, rubber being one of the most valuable commodities in the world. Iquitos enjoyed prosperity during the rubber boom, much wealth being created at this time, when the rubber barons were born. Unfortunately, rubber tree seeds were smuggled out of Peru, so the wealth did not last, the monopoly enjoyed by Iquitos ending.
Because it is so close to the equator, Iquitos does not have distinct dry and rainy seasons, unlike most of the Peruvian Amazon. Instead, it can rain throughout the year, but it is unusual for there to be several days of uninterrupted rain. For this reason, the area is a good jungle destination at all times, especially when it rains heavily further south from October to April, making jungle trips to other destinations more difficult. Despite the uniformity of rainfall in Iquitos, the water level of the Amazon River varies tremendously throughout the year. This is affected by the rainfall in the areas feeding the tributaries of the Amazon, and as the Amazon River rises it increases in width by several hundred metres between the months of November and April. These are the best months for viewing wildlife, as the available land area is significantly reduced. Therefore, the wildlife is forced onto a smaller landmass, making it easier to spot. At this time some Amazon lodges are inaccessible, but because Amazon Curaca Camp is on higher ground beside the Amazon itself, it can always be reached, and is never flooded.
Iquitos Attractions
Because Iquitos is the most interesting jungle city in Peru, it is worth spending a day wandering round exploring it. The Boulevard along Malecón Maldonado is a lovely pedestrian area alongside the river, with many bars, cafes and restaurants, often with live music at weekends. There are beautiful views across the Amazon River, although the river is quite far away in the low water period.
Iquitos has many wonderful tiled houses from its high period around the end of the 19th century. Among the finest of these is the former Hotel Palace, now army barracks, on the corner of Jr. Putumayo and Malecón Tarapacá. From the same boom period in Iquitos’ history is the Casa de Fierro (the Iron House) on the Plaza de Armas. This interesting, although not beautiful, iron structure was built by Gustav Eiffel, who built the Eiffel Tower, and was brought over from Paris at the end of the 19th century. The building now houses shops and restaurants. The Plaza de Armas itself is pleasantly spacious and also has the Iglesia Matriz on it.
The Museo Amazónico (entrance $1, open Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm) contains an interesting collection of statues of native tribes people from the surrounding jungle. The statues were made by putting plaster casts on the naked bodies of natives. It also contains interesting exhibitions on the native cultures of the area. The Museo Municipal on the Plaza de Armas has a collection of stuffed fish and animals as well as some native art. Entry is free. The Biblioteca Amazónica (Malecón Tarapacá 345) contains a large collection of documents on the Amazon Basin.
Puerto Belén - the Venice of the Amazon (see photos opposite), a large shantytown by the edge of the Itaya River, is one of the most interesting districts of Iquitos. Many of the houses here are built on stilts because of the major changes in the river level between high and low water, and some houses are even built on rafts, so they float up when the river rises. The district is called the Venice of the Amazon as most people get around by boat on the river, although it is far more similar to a far-eastern river market. It is worth taking a trip around the port in a canoe, which will cost around $0.50 for a 15-minute ride. The market is also worth wandering around and has many wonderful fruits. Be careful with belongings, however, as the area is very poor. A mototaxi to the port costs about $0.60 from the centre.
2 kilometres west of the centre is the Lago Moronacocha, which has beautiful sunsets.
There are several spots close to Iquitos that make for good escapes from the city. One of the most popular is Quistococha (open 8am to 5pm, entrance $1) a park/zoo set on the shores of a beautiful jungle lake. The zoo contains many jungle animals, including pumas, jaguars, ocelots, tapir, river otters, monkeys, snakes and caiman, although the cages are often far too small. There are also several good walks on jungle trails. The lake itself is beautiful and there is a lovely white sandy beach from where it is possible to swim or hire a boat. There is a basic restaurant with limited choice, and it is better to bring a picnic. Combis for Quistococha leave from Belén market and from Parque 28 de Julio and charge $0.30. There are several other bathing spots close to Iquitos. The small port of Bellavista Nanay, 2km from Iquitos, has a good, sandy beach from June to November, and also has some Bora and Yagua native communities nearby.
There are several native villages near Iquitos, including San Andrés, Santo Tomás and Santa Clara. These can be reached by taxi or by combi from the corner of Jr. Próspero and José Gálvez.
Getting to and from Iquitos
This is provided for your information, although we shall take care of all travel arrangements for you.
Air connections
There are normally good flight connections between Iquitos and Lima and Tarapoto. Flights leave daily in the early morning and take 1hr.45 minutes. Flights return to Iquitos in the early evening.
The airport is a few kilometres south of the city, near Quistocacha. Mototaxis charge around $1 to get to or from the airport, and there are also taxis available for a bit more. There is a tourist information booth at the airport with information on the city and jungle tours.
Bus connections
There are no bus connections to Iquitos from the rest of Peru, although there are a few roads going to nearby towns. Combis to Nauta leave from the corner of Jr. Próspero and Jr. José Gálvez when it has not rained. When it rains the road becomes impassable. If it has not rained the journey takes about 3 hours and costs $3.
River connections
The main port in Iquitos is Puerto Masusa, from where large passenger boats leave. Take a mototaxi from the centre for $1. There is also a smaller port from where speedboats leave at Embarcadero El Huequito.
Large boats are slow, taking passengers and cargo. They provide you with a space to sling a hammock and basic food (but not water) for the journey. Most boats also have bunks in cabins available for a few dollars more, although these are not necessarily any more comfortable. Boats get very full and travel slowly, and the journey should only be undertaken by anyone looking for an adventure and not afraid of discomfort. Be prepared for delays, as boats often take a long time loading and unloading at intermediate stops. Make sure you bring a hammock to sleep in and ropes to hang it from. Bring food, as what is provided is unlikely to satisfy. Bring lots of water, as there is little for sale onboard. It is possible to buy drinks and food when the boat stops at small ports, although this can be infrequent. Watch your belongings carefully on the boat, as there is nowhere to leave them safely. Tie up rucksacks in your hammock during the day, and bring a padlock to keep bags closed.
To buy a ticket, just turn up at the port and find a boat leaving for your destination. All paperwork is handled directly by the captain. Boats tend to leave around 4pm and it is possible to buy a ticket right until the boat leaves, although bunks fill up long before, and by 4pm there is very little room to hang a hammock.
Speedboats are available to the border with Brazil and Colombia only, and the journey is much quicker and more comfortable this way, although it is also much more expensive.
There are also luxury cruise services to some destinations. (See Jungle Cruises).
Brazil/Colombia border
Large passenger and cargo boats leave from Puerto Masusa for Islandia, on the Peruvian side of the border. The journey takes 3 days and costs $14.
Speedboats (Yates) leave from the Embarcadero El Huequito. These charge $50 to Tabatinga on the Brazilian side of the border. The journey takes 8 hours and boats leave at 6am every day except Monday. Boats seat 18 people and the price includes lunch. Speedboats stop at Santa Rosa, the last town on the Peruvian side of the border, to sort out papers. There are two companies operating speedboat services, both with offices on the 3rd block of Jr. Raymondi, 3 blocks up from the Plaza de Armas. Trans Acuatico Rápido Mayco (Raymondi 384, T 233157) has boats on Sunday, Wednesday and Friday. Transportes Amazónicos de Turismo, (Raymondi 344, T 231278) has boats on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Boats return to Iquitos on every day except Tuesday, and the return journey takes 9 hours.
Pucallpa
The only passenger services to Pucallpa are in large passenger and cargo boats leaving from Puerto Masusa. The journey takes five to six days and costs $17.
Yurimaguas/Lagunas
The only passenger services to Yurimaguas are in large passenger and cargo boats leaving from Puerto Masusa. The journey takes three days and costs $10. Boats pass Lagunas after two days, and the journey to Lagunas costs $7.
Around Iquitos
The reason most people travel to Iquitos is to visit the jungle around the city. Being at only 100m above sea level, the jungle around Iquitos is different from that of the Manu National Park or that around Puerto Maldonado, for example, which are higher. The temperature is hotter and the rain patterns very different, and the wildlife, and the bird life that lives in the jungle varies considerably from the higher areas far upstream. Another great experience unique in Peru to Iquitos is the magnificent sight of the Amazon River, which in places is more than a kilometre across, even this far from its mouth, almost 4,000km away on the Atlantic.
The area around Iquitos is heavily populated, meaning that little wildlife can be seen within about 50km to 100km of the city. If you wish to see animals you are better off going further from the city. Upriver of Iquitos is probably less inhabited.
Many jungle tours include trips to native communities. Many of these trips are rather unauthentic, largely consisting of a dance and music show specifically for tourists. Our guides can, however, provide you with a more authentic experience in an indigenous community further from Iquitos. Wildlife seen will vary between programmes, but you will see monkeys, sloths, many varieties of birds and pink and grey river dolphins, both of which can usually be seen on the river. Piranha fishing is also included. You will also see the giant Victoria Regia Lilies.
There are several options if you wish to visit the jungle around Iquitos. We have two lodges, so we are able to offer days at each, allowing you to visit different areas while staying in the comfort of a lodge. See Programmes.
Another good option for travelling around is to take a cruise in a luxury boat. These move around, meaning that you are in a different location every day, and some of the boats are very comfortable. Cruises tend to be very expensive, however. Ask for details.
The most flexible option is to camp in the forest with a guide, which is offered on most of our programmes. This is good for seeing wildlife and allows great mobility, although comfort levels are obviously much lower. But you will usually only be away from the lodge for one night
Jungle cruises
One of the best and most comfortable ways of seeing the Amazon is on a cruise, although this is also one of the most expensive ways.
We are currently linking up with cruise operators and will put details here as soon as we have them.
Pacaya Samiria National Reserve
The Pacaya Samiria National Reserve is the largest national park in Peru, measures over 2,000,000 hectares in area and is the fourth largest reserve in all South America. Although not as pristine as Manu, near Cusco, for example, the reserve still offers an excellent opportunity to see much wildlife, especially in the high water period, when the animals are forced onto a smaller area of land. The Reserve is particularly noted for its mirror-like reflections found in its translucent waters.
It contains four different types of forest, some areas being under water for up to four months a year during the rainy season, and the flora and fauna are the most diverse you will find anywhere in the Amazon. There are over 102 species of mammal, including 12 species of primates, jaguars, ocelots, tapirs, giant river otters, manatees and pink and grey dolphins. There are over 450 species of birds, and many reptiles and fish, including alligators and piranhas. In all there are over 85 lakes in the Reserve.
Although located some way from Iquitos, most people who visit the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve do so from here. There is an entry point from Nauta, which can be reached either by road or by boat, 200km upriver of Iquitos. There are no jungle lodges in the reserve, meaning that you must camp if you wish to visit the park and go with a private guide. This can be arranged through us. We can also arrange stays in native communities in the reserve and trips to see wildlife. A more comfortable, but expensive, way of visiting the park is on a cruise organised by Junglex. There is an $18 entry fee to the national reserve.
It can be rather expensive to visit the park from Iquitos due to the distance involved. Therefore, we set off from the lodge, with a guide to take you into the park. Lagunas can be reached by travelling for two days upriver from Iquitos or one day downriver from Yurimaguas. It is also possible to arrange tours from Tarapoto, going via Yurimaguas and Lagunas.
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